Finally, the wait is over. Anticipation met gasping satisfaction when the lights dimmed on the runway and the Marc Jacobs Spring Season 2012 Collection slowly emerged from behind a lavish, golden curtain in the last, feverously awaited show of New York Fashion Week. But with a full cast of models draped in Fosse-style on wooden chairs lining the stage marking the opening, the best had yet to arrive.
Fitting to go last, it was. Not only does Marc Jacobs present one of the best and most important collections each season in terms of trendsetting, but he also knows how to put on a show. And talk about ended with a show: theatrics and precisely choreographed models in a Broadway-esque jazz theme, mixed with sparkle and shimmer to reflect a 20’s Cabaret vibe, down a wooden framed runway set in the deep South. And we haven’t even gotten to the clothes.
The collection intentionally highlighted the famous 20’s era. Looks were drop-waisted and had a touch of flapper-ish fringe. And although dresses seem to be making a return on the runway recently, Jacobs showed mostly separates, below-the-knee skirts in modern, crazy fabrics. Silicone? Cellophane? Yes. Sparkle? Shine? But, of course. From thick, glowing taffetas to translucent, sheer plastic, Jacobs paired classically elegant with mid-century edge in patterns and fabrics ever so intricately embroidered.
Classic was the collection, with old diner-like hues—maroons, lemons, greens, blues—and perfect tailoring—a master class in Jacobs dressmaking, mixed with futuristic inventions and plastic cowboy boots for a little pop and a little playfulness in a faded, Southern dance hall.
Alluding to the reason why we all crave Marc Jacobs: his ability to create a modern edge to classic, everyday pieces suitable for every occasion, each piece a work of art carefully and thoughtfully designed and crafted for which to make us lust and long, with the arrival of each new season.
So thank you, Hurricane Irene. Even though you caused us much discomfort in the postponing of the Marc Jacobs Spring 2012 Collection and his show, your failed plans of mischief caused no permanent damage, but instead brought with it a reward so great that it made the wait seem anything equal to that of petty.
Almost as if Jacobs orchestrated the plan, himself, all along, secretly winking at the audience when he walked out sporting jazz pants of his own. With the sending of an urgent email just hours before, canceling all backstage beauty press due to a very long technical rehearsal, a show was in the works from the beginning. And a show was what we got, indeed.
And once again, Marc Jacobs lives up to his household name (although never surprising), and delivers NYFW and the rest of the fashion world the collection of the season, reminding us why we wait patiently for so long, why we gasp when we see a look in all its glory slowly emerge out of the spotlight down the runway and why we fell in love with fashion in the first place.
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